Care Instructions for
Every Green Dog Material
Every material behaves differently. This guide tells you exactly how to clean, dry and protect your piece, whatever it's made from. The better you care for it, the longer it lasts.
What's your piece made from?
BioThane® Waterproof Collar & Lead Care
The easiest material to care for. BioThane is fully waterproof and wipe-clean. Just don't neglect the hardware.
- Wipe with warm water and mild soap
- Use a soft cloth or sponge for stubborn mud
- Rinse hardware with fresh water after sea or river swimming
- Towel dry after washing
- Leave to air dry naturally
- Avoid leaving near radiators or heaters
- Washing machines and tumble dryers
- Bleach, vinegar or harsh solvents
- Sand left inside D-rings or snap hooks
BioThane itself doesn't absorb water or odour. The material is extremely hard-wearing. The hardware is the vulnerable part. Always rinse and dry after saltwater or heavy mud exposure.
Paracord Collar & Lead Care
Tough, quick-drying and resilient. Paracord benefits from gentle hand cleaning but is forgiving in daily use.
- Hand wash in warm water with mild soap
- Scrub lightly with a soft brush
- Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear
- Spot clean individual marks where you can, rather than washing the whole piece
- Pat dry with a towel first
- Air dry flat or hanging
- Keep hardware facing up so water drains away from joints
- Washing machines and tumble dryers
- Very hot water, which can distort fibres permanently
- Radiators and direct heat
- Fabric softeners, which affect grip on adjusters
- Sharp edges. Paracord cannot be repaired once cut
Saltwater is fine, as long as you rinse it off afterwards. Always dry hardware completely to prevent dulling. Paracord is 550lb Type III, so the cord itself is rarely the part that wears out.
PPM & Nylon Rope Lead Care
Lightweight, water-resistant and very low maintenance. The most common material for slip leads and custom rope leads.
- Hand wash with mild soap in warm water
- Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear
- Spot clean where you can, rather than washing the whole lead
- Towel dry to remove excess water
- Air dry naturally. PPM dries very quickly
- Nylon takes slightly longer, so hang it to speed things up
- Washing machines and tumble dryers
- High heat, which can distort or melt rope fibres
- Harsh bleach-based detergents
- Leaving hardware wet in a bag after swimming
PPM is naturally buoyant and absorbs very little water. Nylon absorbs slightly more but dries fast. Both materials are UV-stable, so daylight does them little harm.
British Wool Collar Care
Naturally antimicrobial, breathable and beautifully textured. Wool needs slightly gentler handling than synthetic materials.
Brush it, do not wash it. The wool is untreated, which is what gives it the handle and the character. It also means it will felt if it gets wet and worked. Let mud dry completely, then brush it out with a soft brush and it will come up clean. Wool is naturally odour resistant, so it needs washing far less often than you would expect.
- Keep away from radiators and direct sunlight
- Washing of any kind, by hand or by machine
- Getting it wet and then working it, which is what felts wool
- Rough scrubbing or abrasive cloths
- Tumble dryers
- Wringing or twisting
British wool, graded and spun in Yorkshire, and laid into rope in Britain. It is naturally odour-resistant, so you won't need to clean it as often as a synthetic. Let it dry fully after heavy rain before storing. Wool stays warm even when damp.
Cotton Rope Collar & Lead Care
Soft and natural, but more absorbent than synthetic rope. Allow plenty of drying time.
- Hand wash in cool or lukewarm water
- Mild detergent only, no bleach or harsh chemicals
- Spot clean individual marks where possible instead of full washing
- Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear
- Gently towel dry to remove excess water
- Hang or lay flat to air dry naturally
- Allow full drying before storage to maintain shape
- Washing machines and tumble dryers
- Hot washes, because cotton can shrink significantly
- Long soaking, because cotton absorbs a lot of water
Cotton milled and dyed in Yorkshire, and laid into rope in North Yorkshire. The colour can soften slightly with years of daylight and washing, which is a characteristic of a dyed natural fibre rather than a defect. Always allow full drying before storing.
Natural Leather Care
Vegetable-tanned and naturally finished. Italian, French and British cowhide, chosen for each piece rather than a single origin claim.
- Wipe with a damp cloth to remove dirt
- A small amount of mild, unscented soap for stubborn marks
- Remove mud and sand promptly, because grit wears the surface over time
- If wet, towel dry then air dry naturally. Never rush this
- Condition every two to three months with a leather balm
- Apply lightly and allow to fully absorb before use
- Buff gently with a soft cloth
- Washing machines and tumble dryers
- Soaking in water, which will damage the fibres
- Saltwater. Rinse leather and hardware immediately if exposed
- Direct heat: radiators, fireplaces, tumble dryers
- Heavy scrubbing or abrasive cleaners
Leather will soften and develop a natural patina over time. That is not a defect, it is a sign of quality. Well-conditioned leather ages instead of wearing out. A patina collar tells a story. Embrace it.
Hardware Care. Solid Brass, Plated Finishes & Zinc Die Cast
All hardware is load-tested by the fitting's manufacturer. It is built to last, but all metals need basic care, especially after water exposure.
- Dry hardware immediately after any water exposure
- Rinse with fresh water after sea, river or lake swimming
- Don't leave wet collars folded inside bags
- Inspect D-rings and snaps periodically for wear
- Rinse especially where two different metals meet, because that is where salt does its work
Develops a warm patina with use. If you prefer it bright, a soft cloth and brass polish takes it straight back to gold. Polish only ever goes on solid metal: never use it on a plated or zinc die cast finish, because it takes the plating off. Will not rust. Fitted throughout on the Sheep Shed, Cotton Mill and Greenwich editions, and offered on leather alongside solid nickel.
A bright finish over a solid base. The snap hooks are nickel-plated solid brass, the D-rings are solid nickel, solid brass, or steel with a black or gun-metal finish, and the rivets are stainless steel, solid brass, gun-metal or black plated steel, never nickel. On the customisable ranges, where you pick a plated finish, the buckle is plated over steel. The Sheep Shed, the Cotton Mill and the Greenwich Yarn collars are the exception, because every fitting on those is solid brass. Leather is solid metal too: solid brass or solid nickel, your choice. At the points that rub, the plating thins first and the metal underneath begins to show. That is wear, not a fault, and it doesn't affect strength. Wipe dry after wet walks. Don't use metal polish on a plated finish. Like the die cast colours, it takes the plating off rather than bringing it back.
Cast zinc is strong and holds its shape. The colour is a finish over the casting rather than the metal's own colour, so unlike brass it can't be polished back once it has worn. Skip metal polish on these, it takes the finish off rather than restoring it. Rinse and dry after saltwater.
Send it back to me: If the hardware fails in the first twelve months I'll repair or replace it and cover the postage. After that, send it back any time and I'll replace worn parts at cost plus postage. Read the full policy →
one rule above all others
Saltwater and river mud don't damage BioThane, rope or paracord, but they will dull and corrode hardware if not rinsed off promptly. It matters most where two different metals sit against each other: zinc against brass or steel, sitting in salt, corrodes faster than either metal does on its own. A rinse under fresh water and a quick towel-dry after every wet walk extends the life of your piece significantly. It takes seconds and makes a genuine difference.
Hardware types at a glance
Warm gold. Develops a patina with use, polishes back if you'd rather it bright, and will not rust. The most corrosion-resistant fitting in the range. Standard throughout the Sheep Shed, Cotton Mill and Greenwich editions, offered on leather beside solid nickel, and available on customisable clips and rings. Load-tested by the fitting's manufacturer.
Bright. A nickel finish over a solid base: the snap hooks are nickel-plated solid brass, the D-rings are solid nickel, solid brass, or steel with a black or gun-metal finish, and the rivets are stainless steel, solid brass, gun-metal or black plated steel, never nickel. On the customisable ranges, where you pick a plated finish, the buckle is plated over steel. The Sheep Shed, the Cotton Mill and the Greenwich Yarn collars are the exception, because every fitting on those is solid brass. Leather is solid metal too: solid brass or solid nickel, your choice. Wipe dry after wet walks and the finish lasts years.
Deep matt black or dark grey. Cast zinc holds its shape and takes a knock well. The colour is a finish over the casting, so where it wears you'll see lighter metal beneath and polish won't bring it back. Rinse after saltwater.
The fixed ranges are solid metal throughout: solid brass on Sheep Shed, Cotton Mill and the Greenwich editions; solid brass or solid nickel on leather. On the Customisable range you choose the finish yourself, fitting by fitting, and your order confirmation lists exactly what you picked.
Not sure what your piece is made from?
Check your order confirmation, which lists every material. Or just email me and I'll tell you exactly what you have and how to look after it.